Why your Microsoft Wireless Laser Mouse 8000 won’t charge i.e. Microsoft cuts corners on hardware….again

I’ve had the MS wireless mouse and keyboard combo for a while now. It works very well, but one thing always bothered the hell out of me. The battery just wouldn’t charge! You’d place it on the cradle and leave, and the next morning, it would be flashing red at you merrily, with no charge. Not just annoying, but productivity killing since I’d have to root around and find my wired mouse. Not my favorite way to start the morning. Poking around the web, I cam across this forum thread:


If the above instructions are confusing or elaborate:

1) Open your battery compartment

2) Take the battery out and you should see a metal half ring in the bottom of the compartment. This detects if the battery has been seated correctly. This is also what is causing your problems.

3) The cheapest fix is to jam the battery into the compartment making sure its pressing the switch. Place the mouse gently onto the charger and it should work.

4) If it still doesn’t work, you’ll need to copy what the original poster did or get a new "bigger" battery. I know all AA batteries should be the same, but evidently the one you’ve got isn’t big enough. Sorry, sometimes size matters. 😛

As an aside, you know, regardless of my status as an employee, why does MS hardware always have problems? I’m not just talking out of my ass here, here are all the problems I’ve had:

1) Xbox 1: DVD drive dies…TWICE! I had to replace both by hand. Thank you Llama and your xbox pages!!

2) Xbox 360: Red ringed, AND the xbox at work red ringed, AND this DVD drive is dying too. I’m going to pop it open and try cleaning it, but it usually takes 5-10 tries to get my copy of Soul Calibur IV working…my 3rd copy because the other 2 started cracking.

3) Mouse won’t charge because the battery switch is poorly designed and won’t recognize battery unless you "wiggle it, just a little bit".

Maybe I’m being overly hard, but it doesn’t take a genius to figure out that you should get better hardware testers looking over your stuff. I have never had as many problems with electronics as I have with MS hardware. The part that kills me is that its so well designed in many other ways. Guess I’m a glutton for punishment….:)

Relevant portion reposted here ( all credit to detroit doug ):

(Msg. 9) Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 1:15 am
Post subject: Re: Problem Microsoft Wireless Laser Mouse 8000 – Bluetooth [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

There is a much easier fix that will only require you to open the
battery compartment once and only once.
Microsoft and whomever they have contracted to build the batteries had
the same issue with the 7000 series as well and this is a fix Ive used
on all the 7000 series Ive ran across.
First take a piece of paper and cut a strip slightly under the length
of the battery itself
Then wrap this strip around the battery 2 to 3 times and cut off the
excess length and tape it into place to keep it from unrolling
Replace battery into compartment and test – it now should be the
appropriate thickness needed to depress the sensor switch within the
compartment and verify to the mouse itself a battery is indeed
installed, THAT is the reason for the flashing red light, Microsoft
contracted with a company that built a series of batteries that are too
thin and do not depress the switch and the wonderful QA department never
caught it and obviously marketing figures it is more cost efficient to
continue to sell these units with an improperly designed battery than
re-build and replace all of them already shipped
Hope that helps



17 thoughts on “Why your Microsoft Wireless Laser Mouse 8000 won’t charge i.e. Microsoft cuts corners on hardware….again

  1. Doug from Detroit gave the right answer. Rather than rolling paper around the battery, I wrapped the body of the battery with duct tape, only need to go around the battery once. Problem solved! Makes one wonder about the quality control going on at Microsoft, doesn’t it.

  2. Yesterday I got a refurbished (Geeks) Microsoft Wireless Laser 7000 keyboard and mouse. I followed instructions here because I was getting a flashing red light on my mouse. I decided to insert a regular AAA battery and it worked. My son went out and bought me a new battery. Worked like a charm. Green blinking light on the charger – let it charge for an hour and I’m good to go. Oh – I DID try the paper bit but it’s NOT the charger – it’s the battery.

    • Thanks for replying Bud! I think when I was researching this problem I came across that issue as well, but it seemed like alot of people were replacing the battery and still having issues with the hardware. Glad it worked out for you though…replacing the battery is a whole lot easier than wrapping it with paper etc. 🙂

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  4. Had the same problem (8000). Here’s what I think caused my issue at least and here’s what I think fixed it.
    Cause: Not setting mouse in cradle when not in use. Why? Because this seriously depletes the battery below what the charging circuit will recognize if you use your mouse until the battery is very weak…so I’ve read. Also, I recently moved and my station is set up a little different which made me lazy about setting it in the cradle (lack of outlets close enough to my station to have the charger on my desk). As for the physical issues including the battery switch, I didn’t try those, didn’t need to. This is probably a different issue unto it’s self because…
    Fix: Also not my discovery but… as soon as the light started flashing red, I reset the mouse on the charger, keeping the little charge it had gained for those few seconds(Don’t be tempted to use it to do a couple quick clicks, it defeats the purpose.)
    After doing this about 4 or 5 times it charged fine, no red lights. I just needed to build up enough of a charge to…well, get it to charge fully.

    • Will, thanks for reading! Having dealt with this issue for a while and hearing all the feedback, I have settled on the notion that there are a multiplicity of failure modes for the battery not charging syndrome. It’s somewhat surprising that something so simple could go so wrong…

    • It actually works!
      I haven’t used my mouse for quite a while (more than a year), so I had to do what you said around 30 times before the mouse started to charge properly. I also had to scrub with a paper clip every metal contacts, since they tend to oxyde quite often.
      Thanks for the tip!

  5. i have the wireless 8000 keyboard and i have this red flashing light it wont charge and its not the battery sensors. also the volume control dont work either. my step dad has a $5 keyboard and 6 years later everything still works on it WTF. and my xbox 360 died pulled it apart to find microsoft used some clear gue and a piece of aluminium to replace thermal paste. bloody retards seriously.

    • The early revisions of the xbox360 were truly terribly constructed. My xbox used to sound like it would take off – not to mention it both red ringed, but it had BOTH red ring problems. Thanks for reading!


  6. I found a couple of winds of sellotape around the battery where it fits into the sensor did the trick. The mouse is now charging like a dream.

    • That’s great! I had no idea people would still be encountering these problems all these years after writing the initial post. I hope all the hints on this page are helpful and make MS will actually fix these problems.

      Thanks for reading!


  7. Mine charges the battery but doesnt work when I take it off charge so i think its not the battery sensor anyone have solution for this it’s driving me crazy only just happened tonight n I’ve tried loads of batteries

  8. And another one with the same problem, solved thx to this blog :). It’s kind of a MagLite problem too, by the way. I have a MiniMaglite (2xAA) in which not all my rechargeable batteries fit. Some you would have to push really hard (and never get out again). I took one of those and put it in my Lasermouse 8000 … bazinga.

  9. Thanks for this post! A folded piece of paper did the trick for me… Interesting problem! Wondering what exactly would be the use of such a switch?

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